As global awareness of environmental issues surges, the food industry today finds itself at a crucial juncture with a mounting pressure to adopt sustainable practices. Consumers increasingly demand not only quality and flavor but also ethical sourcing and environmental stewardship. In this context, the industry’s role transcends mere food production, extending to global issues of sustainability and responsible resource management.
Christian Sandefeldt’s journey in this dynamic industry is nothing short of remarkable. Born in Stockholm and raised in the diverse landscapes of Tanzania and Sweden, Christian’s culinary voyage began early. His unique upbringing, coupled with his father’s involvement in the hotel industry, laid the foundation for what would become a distinguished career. With over four decades of experience, Christian has evolved from a budding chef to a seasoned entrepreneur and an ardent advocate for sustainability in the seafood industry.
Christian’s career is a tapestry of global experiences, having worked around the world as a chef, owner, and consultant. His transition from the kitchen to a focus on caviar is a testament to his versatility and passion for culinary innovation. Alongside his wife, also a veteran in the restaurant business, Christian has not only created acclaimed restaurants but also established a successful events business. His venture into the caviar industry marked a significant shift, culminating in the acquisition and rebranding of a caviar farm in 2018, a bold move that led to a staggering 300% growth of his business through the pandemic.
We recently had the opportunity to speak with Christian Sandefeldt, where he shared insights into a part of his career that he is especially passionate about: sustainability advocacy. His commitment to sustainable practices in the seafood industry is not a recent development but a cause he has championed since the early 1990s. Christian’s influence is evident in the UK restaurant scene, where he has left an indelible mark by promoting sustainable seafood sourcing and consumption.
Dive into the full story to explore the depths of Christian Sandefeldt’s commitment to sustainability and his innovative strategies for a greener future.
Hello Christian, it’s a pleasure to have you with us today. Can you share what initially sparked your interest in sustainability within the seafood industry and how this passion has evolved over the years?
When I first worked in a restaurant in London, we paid £1.20 per pound for cod, and the quality was astonishing, much fresher than we could get in Scandinavia. The fish were so fresh that the flesh was almost translucent. Fast forward to 1996, and the price for cod had risen to over £4 per pound, with a large part of the fish having been out of the sea for days.
What were some of the key challenges you faced in the early days of advocating for sustainability in the seafood industry, particularly in the UK, and how did you overcome them?
One of the key challenges was overcoming people’s reluctance to try new types of fish, especially freshwater fish. There was a significant resistance to change, exemplified by the hesitation to even try pollock, despite its similarity to the familiar cod. To overcome this, we focused on education and awareness campaigns. We highlighted the similarities between popular and less-known fish varieties, emphasized the environmental and culinary benefits of diversifying seafood consumption, and worked closely with chefs and restaurateurs to introduce these sustainable options in more creative and appealing ways on their menus. This approach gradually changed perceptions and opened up the market to a wider variety of sustainable seafood options.
How do you measure the impact of your sustainability efforts on restaurant operations and consumer choices in the UK, and what significant changes have you observed over the years?
By around 2010, it became apparent that the majority of reputable restaurants in London had started to provide information about the origins and sustainability of their fish. This shift in transparency is a significant change that reflects both the industry’s and consumers’ growing commitment to sustainable practices. This trend has not only influenced restaurant menus but has also educated and shaped consumer preferences over the years.
Could you describe some specific sustainable practices you have implemented or promoted in the seafood industry and how these practices have been received by your peers and competitors?
Diverse species and better fishing methods have made serving dredged seafood, such as scallops, almost considered criminal. I often use an analogy regarding dredging. Imagine if someone decided to hunt for deer using two helicopters with a three-mile-long net between them, ripping trees out of the ground, destroying other wildlife, and ruining the environment for decades. Naturally, people would become quite upset. Yet, this happens every single day to catch scallops. I have heard this analogy repeated many times since.
What role do you believe education plays in enhancing sustainability in the seafood industry, and have you been involved in any educational or awareness programs?
I believe that while I may not have directly influenced individuals, the ideas I championed in the 1990s potentially contributed to broader discussions on sustainability. The role of education is vital, and the influence of social media personalities and renowned chefs amplifies the importance and impact of these concepts.
What emerging trends do you see in sustainable seafood practices, and how do you plan to adapt or contribute to these trends in the coming years?
In observing the trends in sustainable seafood practices, I’ve noted a growing awareness of the challenges in fish farming. While Europe has implemented tighter restrictions to promote sustainability, there is a trend of relocation to areas with less stringent regulations, such as the salmon farming practices in Chile. This shift highlights the need for global attention to underwater practices, akin to dredging, which often remain out of sight and out of mind.
To adapt to and contribute to these emerging trends, my focus will be on increasing visibility and awareness of such practices. By advocating for more stringent global standards and collaborating with international bodies, I aim to ensure sustainable practices are adopted universally. My plan includes educational initiatives to bring these issues to the forefront and working closely with industry stakeholders to develop more sustainable approaches, regardless of location.
What advice would you give to other chefs and restaurateurs looking to make their operations more sustainable, especially in the context of the seafood industry?
Join organizations like HSWRI, but if you live close to fishing towns or farms, go and visit to see for yourselves what is changing. The fishermen aren’t the bad guys; they just have to adapt. If customers are unwilling to pay a few cents more for sustainably sourced fish, these fishermen have to make money in less sustainable ways. We have to understand that wild food should not be compared to processed leftovers in a bun with ketchup.
Looking forward, what is your vision for sustainability in the global seafood industry, and how do you see your role evolving in this landscape?
As with many environmental issues, we need to educate poorer countries and help them financially to source food sustainably. As the world evolves, we develop more refined technology for catching fish. This technology will reach less developed areas where people are desperate for food and, consequently, have little concern for environmental issues. This also applies to farming, with shrimp farming in Southeast Asia sometimes being a very questionable practice.
Closer to home for me is obviously sturgeon poaching, which is still ongoing in Eastern Europe and on the eastern shores of the Caspian Sea. My initial goal is to make labeling mandatory in the US, as well as to introduce a uniform list of names. The caviar business needs cleaning up in this country, as very few in the business do it out of passion.
Christian Sandefeldt’s journey is a testament to how culinary expertise and environmental responsibility can be harmoniously blended. As a visionary leader in the industry, his approach offers vital insights for anyone interested in sustainable culinary practices. For those inspired by his story and eager to learn more about sustainability in the culinary world, following Christian’s work and engaging with his initiatives could be a valuable step in exploring the possibilities of eco-conscious cooking and dining.